January 26, 2007
I haven’t made an entry for a long time now and I’m really sorry for that. However, this might also show that it wasn’t boring in South-East Asia. And I decided to enjoy the time as much as possible and not to spend hours in front of the computer because that’s what I am doing at home anyway. In addition, the opportunity of a quiet minute wasn’t always there. Some reports were for example written on the night train in Thailand. But try to write on a bus in Laos or Cambodia where you’re jumping in your seat every two meters because of bad roads … . Maybe I will add some short information about the places I visited during the next days.
All in all, the journey was really great. I saw a lot of interesting places, met nice people and made a lot of experiences. And I didn’t have any serious problems like being ill or being ripped off. After nine weeks of traveling I came back to Germany yesterday. With a temperature of 10-15 degrees the winter in my home town so far was warmer than normally at this time. But during the night in which I flew back from Asia it began to snow, so when I came out of the plane I saw a white winter landscape and the temperature was minus three degrees. What a warm welcome!
I wish all who are still traveling a good time. For me the next weeks will be quite different but for sure interesting as well because I will start my first job after university.
Categories: Getting around
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January 22, 2007
In the following an overview of my route.
Thailand
21.11.-22.11.06 Phuket
22.11.-29.11.06 Koh Phi Phi
29.11.-31.11.06 Krabi: Railay beach, Ton Sai beach
01.12.-04.12.06 Koh Tao
04.12.-09.12.06 Koh Phangan
10.12.-12.12.06 Bangkok
13.12.-19.12.06 Chiang Mai, Pai
Laos
20.12.-21.12.06 Mekong River (Slow Boat)
21.12.-23.12.06 Luang Prabang
23.12.-28.12.06 Vang Vieng
28.12.-28.12.06 Vientiane
29.12.-01.01.07 Don Det (4000 Islands)
Cambodia
02.01.-03.01.07 Phnom Penh
03.01.-05.01.07 Siem Reap (Angkor Wat)
Vietnam
06.01.-10.01.07 Ho Chi Minh City
10.01.-14.01.07 Mui Ne
15.01.-16.01.07 Nha Trang
17.01.-19.01.07 Hoi An
19.01.-23.01.07 Hanoi / Halong Bay
23.01.06 The End
Categories: Getting around
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December 24, 2006
During the last days I was quite lazy in writing but as you probably have heard pictures can say more than thousand words  . Today I took the time to publish more photos so that you can look through during the holidays.
Koh Phi Phi 2
Krabi
Diving
Koh Tao
Koh Phangan
Bangkok
Chiang Mai
Pai
Mekong River
Luang Prabang
Vang Vieng
Merry Christmas!
Categories: Getting around
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December 24, 2006
December 17, 2006
12.12.2006
For Bangkok we had only two and a half days but it seemed to be somehow enough for us. Ok, we haven’t seen very much but the city with its high traffic rate and smog does not really motivate to walk around in order to explore it. We stayed in the hostel called atHOME (117 Tanao Road, just 100m away from Khao San Road) which offered very clean rooms with fan for 300Bath. Bangkok is good for making tailored suits and shirts so on the first day we followed the recommendation for a tailor opposite to the national stadium and also tried one in Khao San Road. Near the national stadium are also Bangkoks biggest shopping centers Siam Center, Siam Discovery Center, Siam Paragon, Central World Plaza and Mahboonkrong side by side. In those centers exists a store for every major international brand and you probably would need several days to see everything but the prices for cloths for example seem to be similar to Germany and walking through the centers is not too much fun when you know that you can’t buy the things because you would have to carry them for 5 weeks.
On the second day I visited tha main tourist attractions, the Grand Palace with Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) as well as Wat Pho which has the largest reclining buddha. We also had to go back to the tailors to do the first fitting. In the evening we went out in Khao San Road. This road is very interesting as it changes completely several times a day. When we arrived at 6am on the first day, the street was completely empty - you wouldn’t have expected that it is an important road. During the day the road, in addition to the opened stores, is full of stalls which sell cloths, bags, shoes and other things. In the late evening then people offer food on the street and the stalls vanish again. We’ve been a bit suprised that in this tourist main street the pubs and clubs all closed at 1am (as normally in Thailand in case the owner does not want to pay the police). So we went to a place a few hundred meters away for playing billard. Today we took the night train to Chiang Mai. It takes 15 hours but as it is a sleeping train and we are quite tired from last night that is no problem.
Bangkok lessons learned:
Somebody approaching you saying “Hello, my friend.” is to 99,99 percent not your friend but somebody that wants to sell something.
The tuk tuk ‘mafia’ is everywhere. If you know where to go and you make a fixed price for a fixed route in advance it’s ok. Otherwise a tuk tuk driver is nothing else than somebody driving you to the places where he gets good commision nomatter whether you agreed in going there or not. And when he realizes that you are not interested in buying he just drops you off somewhere on the way pretending any reason why he cannot continue (The one way streets are difficult for the tuk tuk but Khao San road is just 200m away - yes, of course, tell these stories to your mother next time if you like but not to us. At least we didn’t pay him but we still were a bit angry with ourselves that we did him the favour to go into a silk shop for ten minutes in order that he gets a 5 liter gas coupon and then he still did not drive us to the right place as promised).
Categories: Getting around
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December 10, 2006
09.12.2006
On Monday 4th we went to Koh Phangan. The island is next to Koh Tao and just one hour by boat (200 Bath). I had already reserved a bungalow in advance as cheap rooms are booked out quite early in the Full Moon Party week.
We stayed at Stone Wall Bungalows which is on the hill at the Northern part of sunrise beach in Haad Rin (behind Seaview Haadrin Resort). It was a recommendation from a guy in StudiVZ and it was a good decision to go there. I can recommend it to anyone who wants to stay in Haad Rin, nomatter whether during Full Moon Party time or not. Stone Wall Bungalows is a simple nice and quiet place with great view on Haad Rin and just two minutes walk from the beach where the Full Moon Party is. The family is very friendly and tries to help wherever possible. The food is excellent and the bungalows are reasonably priced (200-500 Bath depending on how high the bungalow is on the hill). The hill is a little challenge so you don’t want to walk up and down too often during the day but it is no problem at all and those who want to have it more relaxed can use a kind of elevator which brings you slowly onto the hill.
Tuesday was a really nice and sunny day so during the day we were mainly lying on the beach. Normally on in the night before full moon there should be a good party as well but as the 5th was king’s birthday no alcohol was sold and the bars were not allowed to play music so there weren’t many people on the beach.
The 6th was the day of the Full Moon Party. Unfortunately, it was heavily raining the whole day and the news had announced that the typhoon which had caused a lot of damage and even killed several people on the Philippines and in Vietnam will move on to Thailand in the evening as a weakened tropical storm. So we weren’t even sure whether the party will take place, for example the ferries from Surat Thani were canceled for the day because of high waves. But around 9pm it suddently stoped raining so the ‘tropical storm’ at Koh Phangang finally was not more than a heavy rain and the party could take place as normal with the execption that nobody was allowed to go into the water. The party was really great. A lot of people and party until sunrise (or longer). The part of the beach where the Full Moon Party takes place is maybe 300-500m long, the bars along the beach play different kinds of music and the famous buckets are sold everywhere. Buckets contain Thai wisky, songsom or wodka mixed for example with coke, sprite or red bull and for sure are one of the reason why all people are in good mood.
The day after the party was a lazy day as probably for most people. Even the evening was very quiet - I would have expected something like a bigger afterparty but only a few people were sitting on the beach and watching fire shows.
For Friday we booked a boat trip to see something from the island but as we arrived at noon they said that the trip is canceled because of high waves. So we decided to rent a jeep and drive around during the afternoon. We went to Than Sadet Waterfalls (which is very small and more a river than a real waterfall) and to Thand Sadet beach, a good place to stay for people who prefer a quiet and relaxed holiday. We also tried a path a bit more in the South and wanted to return along the coast but the path along the coast turned out to be only a hiking trail so we had to go back the same way. The ‘roads’ on the East side of Koh Phangan are very bumpy and not paved, its more a path through the woods that during the rain also became very muddy. We used the 4 wheel drive nearly all the time. It was really fun driving but we were a bit afraid of the wheels because there were wholes everywhere and we were not looking forward to change wheels during our short tour.
On the last night I went to the beach again and the party was quite good, better than the day before. So probably people had recovered or new people had arrived. Today we took the boat to Surat Thani and right now I am sitting in the night train to Bangkok so I have time to write (1050 Bath for taxi, boat, bus and sleeping train). We will stay two nights in Bangkok before we continue our trip to Chiang Mai with the night train on the 12th. I have to leave Thailand on the 20th (Tourist-Visum is only 30 days) so I decided to stay longer in the North instead of spending two much time in Bangkok.
Categories: Getting around
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December 8, 2006
05.12.2006
It is quite interesting how traveling works here on the small islands. After you pay, the agency just fills in a form by hand which finally is the ticket for the whole journey. The man of the longtail boat gets a call and picks you up at the agency at a specified time. From Railay the longtail boat first went to Nammao Bay. Half an hour later a minibus brought us to Krabi Bus station. There the ticket was changed into another hand written ticket and again maybe half an hour later we drove with another minibus to Surat Thani. You just have to believe in the driver of the bus that he brings you to the right destination. For example people who wanted to go to Koh Samui had to wait for another bus although the ferry leaves from the same pier.
At 7pm the minibus stoped in front of a small restaurant/one-woman travel agency in the middle of nowhere (but probably a few kilometers away from the pier in Surat Thani). The driver just said someone else will pick us up later. We handed the ticket to the agent and all we received instead was a Koh Tao (or Koh Phangan) sticker for the t-shirt. Of course it is a bit suspicious when something like that happens the first time and you feel like you booked and overpriced coffee trip. But we could order normally priced food and had the possibility to watch a movie, so finally the idea to make a stop is not all too bad as there was more than enought time. But it would be interesting to see the internal money flow of such a long trip - who has to pay or receives how much for bringing you to one place instead of another.
When I arrived at the pier in Surat Thani I still had more than two hours so I walked around with an Italian couple which wanted to go to Koh Tao as well. On the main street near the pier there was something like an evening market. At 11pm the night ferry left to Koh Tao. Night ferry in this case meant that maybe 60 matraces of 50cm width were lying side by side without any space in between or space for walking. The Italian woman head a few concerns and I also haven’t seen anything like that before. But one or two hours later I was asleep and slept the whole night until somebody woke me up ten minutes before the ferry arrived. So although very crowded it was in my opinion by far more comfortable than having a chair with limited leg space in a bus or plane - at least if you have a good sleep.
When I arrived at 7am the people offering taxis, accomodation or diving courses were already waiting (like always when you arrive somewhere). So I took the free taxi offered by a diving center as I first though about doing a fun dive in the morning until I meet with Moritz ans Isabelle. But they all prepare their boats already the evening before, so I had no chance to go for a morning dive. At Sairee Beach there are maybe about 15 diving centers just a few meters from each other and most of them also have restaurants so I stayed at one which wanted to offer a welcome drink although I said that I am not sure where I will stay. I head breakfest there and then Moritz called that they will arrive shortly, a few hours earlier than originally planned. So I walked back to the pier to meet them. Moritz and Isabelle had met two guys from Chile and a guy from Quebec at the boat who wanted to join us.
After a long discussion we decided to go by longtail boat to Tao Tong Villa which a friend of one person had recommended. The bungalows were ok and had a nice sea view but it was very isolated there - a few bungalows with and own very small beach but nothing else. So we decided not to stay there. The two guys from Chile wanted to go back by boat to Mae Haad Town or Sairee Beach where there is a lot of night life. The rest decided to follow the recommendation which two German girls gave me the day before and to go to Chalok Baan Kao in the South where it is more quiet than in the West but there is still a nice beach with a few diving centers, restaurants and bars. As another guy told us the East of Koh Tao is very quiet again and has only stone beaches, so the South seemed to be a good idea. We (Moritz, Isabelle, Giome and I) stayed three nights at Sunshine Resort which is part of the diving center Scuba Shack (www.divingkohtao.com). In Koh Tao you often get discounts for the rooms in case you book a course. Moritz wanted to do his Open Water Diver (instead of 9800 Bath and 450 per night for the room he payed 9000 and had the room free for three nights), I had the choice between doing fun dives for 1000 Bath each or doing the advanced course for 8500 Bath. As the advance course includes 5 (speciality) dives and they offered a free room for two nights I decided that getting more training as well as the book and the certificate is worth the price difference. Part of my advanced course was a deep dive to 30m, computer dive, navigation dive, night dive and under water photography (I got a CD with the pictures I made - I haven’t seen them yet but in case there are a few good pictures I will make them available here). Moritz and I were mainly diving, Isabelle and Giome rented a scouter together to explore the island but Giome had his small accident during the first minute right in front of the store and Isabell wasn’t more lucky the next day when driving on a sandy bumpy road in order to get to a beach on the East side (but both accidents were mainly due to unexperience in driving). So afterwards they mainly stayed at Scuba Shack as well. For the evening there were two little chilly bars on the beach and as we met every day at 6.45am for diving this was enough for the three nights.
Categories: Getting around
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December 4, 2006
I am currently not using my German sim card. In case you want to reach me please use the Thai mobile number +66 849 186 205. Also mind the time difference (in Thailand it is 6 hours later than in Germany). For cheap calls see for example www.billiger-telefonieren.de. Greetings from Koh Tao - I am Advanced Open Water Diver now
Categories: Getting around
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November 30, 2006
30.11.2006
There is a boat from Koh Phi Phi directly to Railay but as I had already bought an open return ticket Phuket-Koh Phi Phi-Krabi in Phuket I took a different boat to Krabi pier. By then I didn’t know that people speaking about Krabi probably mean Railay or Ton Sai beach as in Krabi town there is nothing interesting. At the pier it was possible to buy a ticket to Railay for 150 Bath (15min. bus and 30min. longtail boat). In Railay there is an East and a West part. We arrived at East Railay which is said to have a bit cheaper accomodation. In contrast the beach in West Railay is better but as it is only two minutes walk to get to the other side it makes no difference where to stay.
The first night I had a bungalow for 650 Bath at Highlands which was nice, clean and quiet. The second day I was at Ya Ya Resort which offer rooms starting from 600 Bath. They are also very clean and a bit more central. On the second day I made a full day climbing course which was really cool an which I would recommend to anybody staying here. I’ve done it at Krabi Climbing where the instructors were really nice but probably it makes not very much difference which company you choose. At least during the first half day at the beginners rock all climbers of different companies were gathered together in one place and the price is also the same (1800 Bath including all equipment, our course also lunch and water). In the afternoon we were on the Firewall at Ton Sai beach and made two nice routes of 30m heights (6A and 6A+). Some parts were really hard and I probably wouldn’t have been able to do it completly without rope but as it was top rope climbing (where the instructor first climbs up to fix the rope at the top) you can simply rest a few minutes sitting in your harnest and the try it again with new power .
Ton Sai beach is another possibility to stay (you can see it from Railay West). It is a bit less touristic and more backpacker style as there are no resorts. Accomodation should be also available for 300-500 Bath. For climing we took the longtail boat (30-50 Bath, 5min) in the evening (I went back to Ton Sai for dinner and to explore it a bit by my own) I walked which takes about 15 minutes but you have to walk a few hundred meters over cliffs or through knee deeo water.
The beach is best in Railay West, accomodation for backpackers probably in Ton Sai. Climbing schools are available in both areas. Both places are very relaxed in the evening - small bars on the beach where you can lay or sit down. In Railay there were a few more people in the evening but all in all it was very quiet although the bungalows were booked out. Most climbers are probably to tired to go out.
Today I will leave for Koh Tao (750 Bath). First longtail boat to Krabi, afterwards 3 hours bus to Surat Thani and then 7 hours night ferry to Koh Tao. So I will arrive tomorrow at 5 o’clock in the morning. In the afternoon I will meet Moritz a German guy who already worked in Chiang Mai for a few weeks. We had email contact several times during the last weeks and wanted to meet on the 1st December in Koh Tao and then travel together.
Categories: Getting around
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November 29, 2006
28.11.06
During the last three days I was mainly diving. I am now a PADI certified Open Water Diver . I first was not sure whether I should do the course on Koh Tao or on Koh Phi Phi but then I decided for Koh Phi Phi as I wanted to stay a few days anyway. I also met a few divers who said that the visibility, the variety of fishes as well as the training are much better on Koh Phi Phi. And although the course costs about 3000 Bath more than on Koh Tao (on Koh Phi Phi it is 12500 Bath, no matter which of the eleven diving schools you choose), it probably was worth doing it now. At Princess Divers the staff was very friendly and we were only two persons in the course with an own instructor, On the first day even another girl which was doing her dive master was with us so we really could not complain about not getting enough supervision.
On the first day we watched learning videos, discussed the questions with an instructure and then went out to do some basic skills near the beach in two meters depth. On the second day we already did the first two dives at max. 12m depth and watched the rest of the videos in the afternoon. Although it was still a bit difficult to control the buoyancy on the first day it was much easier in deep water and it is really great to float around and feel like a fish in a big acquarium. On the third day we did two more dives at max. 18m depth and wrote the exam afterwards. The visibility on all dives was good (20-25m) and the variety of the underwater world really great. Of course I have no comparison yet (maybe I will do one more dive in Koh Tao) but we’ve seen several turtles, a lepard shark, lion fishes, scorpion fishes and many more, which I didn’t espect from a beginner course to be honest.
Right now I am sitting in the boat to Krabi. I will probably stay two nights at Railay beach which is famous for its rock climbing possibilities. Then I will continue my trip to the Eastern islands Koh Tao and Koh Phangan.
Categories: Getting around
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